In a part of Arizona where red rock buttes and mesas abound, the small town (pop. 7,700) of Sedona, Arizona snuggles in the crux of a couple of roads that form a Y.
Once completely under water, time and weather have exposed jagged, oxidized layers of stratified earth romantically named Bell Rock, Coffeepot Mountain, Two Nuns and Courthouse Butte.
At 4,000 feet the nights are nippy in March when I was there, but during the day it's mild and the sky over Cathedral Rock is about as blue as blue can get.
I have explored Sedona and surroundings in a rental car (unlimited mileage for $US109 per week, plus insurance, CDW, taxes. You could take a Phoenix based bus tour of the area, but you really need a car to see everything
Staying right in Sedona is perfect for a day trip to the Grand Canyon as it is only two and a half hours from both the Canyon and the city of Phoenix.
Route 89A to the north runs the twisty length of spectacular Oak Creek Canyon. Along the way you pass Slide Rock State Park, a natural water park with pools and rock slides and a flat rocky area for sunbathing.
To the south is Tuzigoot National Monument, a Sinagua Indian pueblo ruin overlooking the valley, and there is an interesting museum that gives you some insight into prehistoric native culture. Further south and east is the little town of Clarkdale where you can ride the Verde River Canyon Excursion Train on a 40-mile round trip. Just beyond Clarkdale is Jerome, a historic copper mining town whose boom times remain alive in three museums.
There are a number of pricey resorts in this scenic area, but I stayed at a less costly ($US 85) yet very nice B&B called A Touch of Sedona (595 Jordan Road, Sedona AZ 86336; Tel. 602-282-6462) in a residential area of town, only a few blocks from the main shopping street. Each of the four or five rooms is uniquely decorated in wonderful southwest decor and offer breathtaking views of the rock buttes.
There were eight of us sharing the large round breakfast table when I was there, two couples from New York, others from California. Our hosts, besides serving a full breakfast, graciously initiated introductions so that by the time we sat down to eat I felt quite comfortable and very much a part of the group. Conversation was full of past travel experiences.
Shopping is very good for locally created specialty items, and there are dozens of art galleries specializing in western art. Tlaquepaque is a large Mexican style shopping complex worth visiting, though don't look for cheap prices.
Sedona is also a major centre for New Age culture, so several shops cater to holistic healing, spiritual and psychic phenomena interests. Just at the outskirts of town is the very special Chapel of the Holy Cross, designed by a female student of Frank Lloyd Wright. The chapel is built right into the actual rock face of a red rock crag.
I took a memorable two hour jeep tour ($US25) guided by a local cowboy and learned more from him in two hours about the flora, fauna, climate and native American ways than any book could have taught. Red Rock Jeep Tours (270 North Route 89A; Tel. 602-282-6826) is located on the main street, just look for the many distinctive jeeps parked outside. For excellent Mexican food and colourful casa style, try the Oaxaca (231 Route 89A; Tel. 602-282-4179) just across from the jeep tours. It's up a flight of stairs, and some of the windows have been removed, which creates an open air feeling, and you get a good view of street activity and the red rock formations. The margarita was perfect, and the server stopped to chat, so eating alone wasn't lonely in this atmosphere. A very generous meal of burritos, salad, rice and refritos was about $US7.95.
Staff at the Sedona Chamber of Commerce will mail info, or you might stop in while there. The office is about a ten minute walk from A Touch of Sedona B&B, at the corner of 89A and Forrest Road (PO Box 478, Sedona AZ 86336; 602-282-7722).
The atmosphere everywhere in Sedona is friendly, casual and welcoming. I've never had an unpleasant experience in my three visits.